Steel threads for Flight Fins, no zip ties needed



  • Here is a quick walk-thru for installing steel threads into your rails to allow use of Flight Fins without zip ties. The end result is completely hidden but does require drilling out the weak aluminum threads on your rails.

    This is the basic idea:

    0_1520875401229_b8d420dc-d3bf-4e52-b389-58076f7e9041-image.png

    You'll need metal epoxy, a dremel or grinder of some kind, 1/4" drill, and the following parts:
    Binder posts: www.mcmaster.com/#98002a201
    Screws for binder posts: www.mcmaster.com/#91263a535

    Here's the video:
    https://youtu.be/O0sLDwYg5RI

    Cheers!



  • @desperado This is pretty neat!

    It's worth noting that the torque spec for this type of attachment (compressive load on plastic) is very low. Like 4x lower than the normal torque spec for tightening a bolt into a metal panel. Most people will carelessly torque it down nice and tight, introducing a high amount of stress into the plastic. At some point, the fender will see an impact and the plastic will stress fracture right at or near the location of the bolt.

    Since you have complete freedom of hardware after drilling out the rail, here's a few tips for minimizing/eliminating the compressive load on the plastic.
    0_1520887289473_creep.JPG



  • @makermarc Ya, I never tighten my fender bolts much, just hand tight so the fender is not loose, and use a little blue loctite to prevent bolts from loosening.



  • @desperado Yep, that's a quick fix, but a lot of people get it wrong or don't have any experience with relating a hand-torque with a wrench to a measured spec. And with the pictures of fenders getting eaten up by spilled loctite, people are shying away from that as well.

    A shoulder bolt or a metal sleeve in the plastic simplifies the situation, that way you can crank it down, keep it snug, no worry of over-tightening or having the bolt loosen up from low torque. It's also much easier for people to remove the bolts without loctite (for cleaning etc.)

    Just food for thought! I suspect drilling out the rails is probably a bit much for many people as it is, despite the significant improvement.



  • @makermarc
    The metal sleeve is a good idea in principle, people should try it if they think they need it. It would require drilling out the fender (no big deal), but it is complicated by the tight tolerance required and the countersink in the fender. If the sleeve is a little too long, you have a loose connection which will vibrate and cause wear. Too short and the sleeve does nothing. The fender is not made consistently enough I don't think. If someone doesn't know how to tighten bolts, they should not be modding their board in this way in the first place.



  • @desperado said in Steel threads for Flight Fins, no zip ties needed:

    they should not be modding their board in this way in the first place.

    That's no fun, everyone should mod the HELL out of their board IMO 😂😂😂



  • Hmm...I think @OW-Miami 's solution with the steel strap is easier, perhaps stronger, and less trouble for sure to install.



  • @hoovdini
    This is a very cheap one-time investment of about 20 minutes, but then you can easily remove or swap your fender when you want to, don't have to drill holes in your fender, and don't have visible straps cramping your style. I can see how people who are not mechanically inclined or don't have the tools might prefer something easier though.

    What steel straps are you talking about? Steel zip-ties?





  • @makermarc said in Steel threads for Flight Fins, no zip ties needed:

    A shoulder bolt or a metal sleeve in the plastic simplifies the situation, that way you can crank it down, keep it snug, no worry of over-tightening or having the bolt loosen up from low torque. It's also much easier for people to remove the bolts without loctite (for cleaning etc.)

    You recommending a shoulder bolt just so it bottoms out and if sized correctly can't over clamp the plastic fender?



  • @skyman88
    Oh ya the clips. I think those are a good solution, assuming they work. $30 isn't a bad price considering you can easily burn through $30 in zip ties, not to mention the hassle. I just wanted to keep my rails as clean and pure as possible though, with a permanent solution to crappy threads.



  • @desperado
    One is good for the average joe (straps), while yours is better for the DIY person with a bit of skill...at least that's what it seems like.



  • Love this!! Bravo @desperado !!!



  • There is actually a 3rd method I discovered that is much easier than the original method by Desperado (he's been riding fences...for so long now...).

    I'll post pics once I get some time to. Steel straps from @OW-Miami are still the easiest. But this method I'll post requires no epoxy and is just as strong, if not more-so. Definitely faster. Intrigued?



  • Please make this happen!



  • @hoovdini
    The epoxy is a bit of a pain. If there's a better way to do it, my XR still has virgin threads.



  • There is, and I will post it to Facebook on how it’s done. I will no longer use this web site forum, which is technically illegal (due to lack of privacy policy and terms of use).

    Be very careful what you post here as Future Motion has no scruples. They even took down the post asking nicely what’s acceptable to post...If that’s not enough to convince you they don’t give two cents about the users, nothing will. Goodbye.



  • @hoovdini - Jesus Christ. They did delete mine. Despite the fact that not one post in it contains any links to any commercial product, it's all discussion about forum policy, and the OW itself.

    Smooth move, Future Motion.



  • FM, this is disrespectful to your customers.


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