Finally some good news. The CDC was estimating over 200,000 fatalities in the US. They were basing that estimate on models where about 50% of the population stayed home or social distanced. Well the population has embraced intervention quite a bit beyond that 50% and as a result the CDC has revised their model to just over 80,000. And SlyFoxxx, I do go for one about 5 mile ride a day, I go out late, touch nothing, never get off the board. I feel like Will Smith in Omega Man. Empty streets, with zombies hiding inside.

@Senior-Coffee sounds like you've done your homework already. Apart from charging the BMS will also have some auxiliary inputs to the controller. Batt temp, voltage, maybe a generic failsafe signal. Look at the battery plug and see how many cores there are, test each pin for status when its plugged in an the board is on. Thats how you can work out what signals you need to fake so the controller doesn't know the BMS is gone.

I suspect a temporary fix. So long as there isn't any bad noise and the wheel is still rolling smoothly (power off). A bearing change can likely wait until your next tire change. I would just keep an eye on the bearing, If you see globs of the sticky grease from inside coming out and rough noise then you need to do a swap. The worse case is if the bearing fails then the stator can rub on the rim magnets. You would definitely hear that.

While I haven't done this mode to a OW, I do have about 20 years of experience with LiPo batteries. Mostly with model airplanes. Later with variety of electric skateboards and other various projects. Back in the day, we all charged our NiCd radio gear but ran Nitromethane engines. The first LiPo batteries that we played with were pouch batteries without any BMS. It was assumed that it would be handled by the charger. The failure rate for those batteries was huge. Often in a single run or day. What you are suggesting is doing to your OW what we did back then to our planes. So (SKIP THIS IF YOU KNOW BMS AND LiPo WELL) Two Big issues and one small issue you are going to need to deal with. The BMS monitors the the cell voltage both on top and bottom. I assume you are thinking about doing this for the low voltage cut out removal. The reason the BMS cuts off the battery before it is completely flat is because if you run a Lithium battery all the way down it is ruined. It won't take a charge. With those old batteries if we ran them down we would get a drop of about 25-50% of capacity on one run. Do it again and Lose that much more. We ruined batteries in a single day doing that. The top end is more dramatic. If you over charge Lithium batteries they have a tendency to burst into flames. Did that more than once too. With those old chargers you had to set both battery type and top voltage manually. Once I forgot to switch from NiCd to LiPo, once I got the cell count wrong. Both caught on fire. The smaller issue is battery balance. All Cells are not the same. Two batteries that come off the same line, may still vary quite a bit. They all get graded and sorted, but they still all age differently. They all will eventually charge at different rates. The BMS should cut them off when they reach their top safe charge while still charging the slower cells. (BACK TO OW) The BMS's job is not to shut down the board. If I'm not mistaken, its the controller that monitors speed and voltage. It does the warnings, pushback, and shutdown. All before the BMS cut power. The real question (I assume) is Surging. Is this due to BMS cutout, Motor protection, or controller intervention. I have looked for an answer but FM keeps that info pretty close. I think a good place to start would be to look at the behavior of those with a parallel battery mod. Typically they will have separate BMS but same controller and motor circuitry.

@blkwalnutgrwr Love it! Living in the desert the only impressive fungus we get is on the heavily watered golf courses.

@Sponge315 I really want the cape, but Stinkyface is right - old and spandex isn't a great combo. Plus, with the spandex I'd have to crotch-stuff to even come close to making it work - I mean, I don't want to look ridiculous. :o)

Even before you purchase the plan etc. you could try calling both SquareTrade and FM to simply ask if they've done this before. I gotta believe somebody else has already run through this.

@McFloaty said in Getting a pint...again: @Senior-Coffee interesting. No engineer but think if pint has same motor as xr plus, then a smaller diameter wheel must give the pint more torque (all else being equal.) I agree with your thoughts on maneuverability, though I’ve only tried friend’s xr and xr plus, but have many miles on my pint. I grew up skateboarding though, and still need a short board for surfing, and prob treasure turning more than your average bear. 6’2”, 185 lbs, size 12. I found when I was into motorcycles that I prefer "short interactive" rides over long straight rides. ie, a lot more turning, starting stopping, etc. The pint appealed to me in that way.

@HanahsDax said in Fresh Pint Fender Photos - Share What You Are Rolling -O-: Decided to sticker bomb the “clear” version FM produces since it was never very transparent and kind of a bad choice for trail riding. Used a Sharpie to outline OW logo. Interesting to hear that. The clear fender is the one pint exclusive accessory I’ve always really really wanted, and never understood why they didn’t offer it.

@jackiemoon Today my V1 surprised me by wobbling so much so that I brought it back home and took my Plus instead. Checking later, the bolts were tight -- but tire pressure was way low. After adding air I took the V1 out for a long run this evening and it felt right again.

@stinkyface Thanks for the tips. The battery was close to full when this happened (twice). I'll leave it plugged in for a couple days and try to borrow an Android. Thanks again, Bob

Yup, just make an account as others here have suggested, the Forum and App are not linked.

@ivanator order a set of footpads regardless. Front sensor likely not happy about the hose. Front pad a good spare to have if it comes good or you can fix it.

@blkwalnutgrwr Top 5 for overall mileage is an incredible accomplishment no matter what the model of OW. Congratulations! Glad to hear you’re in good health and spirits.

You do have a point though. I thing FM is missing a huge opportunity at their biggest potential market. I spent last summer in southern Germany. The first mile (Km) last mile is huge there. Trains will take you anywhere. Next to most stops of any size is usually a big lot full of bikes, mostly electrified. While electric assist bikes are fine, they are not nearly as fun. OW could take a big chunk of that potential market if they would just set up some sort of service in the EU.

The Hoosier 11.0X6.0-6 slick I put on my XR has me turning on a dime. Not sure how long it is going to last since I went with the super soft and sticky D10A. I'm 185 and running about 20 PSI. The softness of the sidewalls I think is what makes it flex and turn so tight. It also soaks up road cracks and rocks like a sponge. Waiting stopped for traffic and such is a bit tougher. I end up getting off more often.

@Aboelter it keeps coming up, for sure. i think owners of the other models said that it took about a year or so for Custom Shaping to reach those, so maybe we're due for Pint Custom Shaping any time now.... crossing fingers

@paylork its a battery cell imbalance. FM will ask you to run it down flat, then put it on the charger for 48hrs. Worst case the battery will need replacing. I hope you still have warranty.

@Telomere nice one. Thanks for the tip on the o-ring selection. Mine were still intact with a sliver skinned off them. I too had some paint overspray in the bearing area. At least they didn't paint the bearing! 😁