Project: OneWheel Stands (Piano Gloss, African Zebrawood)
Hey all, I just wanted to share a project I'm working on - some furniture grade OneWheel stands so they can live in my studio in between rides. These are being made out of super-dense (and beautiful) African Zebrawood, and will be finished with a high gloss clear coat of water-based poly (to best show the light vs. dark patterns in the grain).
Prototype was made from a cheap white pine 2x10's ($6), and the Zebrawood board (9ft x 10x2") was $355. Overkill for board stands? Probably, but the project is fun and the wood is sick :) Stay tuned as I continue to sand/clear coat this week and next before final assembly. In the meantime, here are a few pics of the process so far:
Prototype to test angle, stability, width, etc. the next white pine model had angled cuts on all sides, including a trapezoidal profile on the upright.
(right): The two stands having their front lips glued up to the bases. This is before the entire unit is run rightside up and upside down through the table saw to create the full side taper. (left): Also making some corner shelves to hang my helmets and store my pads...
Base after all cuts and minimal sanding.
Setup to drill from under the bases into the uprights
Final piece before disassembly for final sanding/clearcoat
One rough coat of clear poly applied. What this doesn't show is the reflective ripples under the surface when you turn the wood in the light. It's like Tiger Eye (mineral) if you've ever seen that!
Let me know if you want to see more as the project heads toward completion!
Dansker last edited by
OK have to say, the tall post, probably should keep the same taper as the sides. it don't have to be 5 inches at top. just make it tall enough or manage the taper to end up with say a 1" square top on the tall post?
@dansker Thanks! I originally wanted to do just that (taper the upright to match), but feared a triangular rocking/instability on the OW once once the stand. Like if you knocked it, it might be tempted to rotate around that post. Additionally I believe the side taper is too great to match (but I would need to verify though).
Agreed 100% though, it would look cooler! I've already started clear coating, but I'll consider an undo.... haha.
Gadgetrider last edited by
That's one cool project. A piece of art that probably costs more in terms of materials and time than you would probably want to know. Got to love those hobby projects! Let us see the final result when you are done.
groovyruvy last edited by
@kevinrwhitley that looks great, you've got some serious skills!
@gadgetrider @groovyruvy Thanks! Totally all it is (a hobby project). Would cost way too much time/money to produce these, but it was a fun design challenge to create some one-off stands that would look at home in an art studio. I really like the actual FM wave stands, but was inspired by someone on here that made it from welded metal sheets (in an upside down "T" fashion with a front lip). Figured I could do something similar with wood - and after finishing the pine prototypes I decided it deserved being in a prettier wood for the final!
Dansker last edited by
@kevinrwhitley Its not going to rotate around the top, because the grove at the bottom holds it. (at least thats my theory)
The stands are complete! This was a labor of love/hate, but I've learned a ton about finishing along the way. The prime takeaways in case anyone wants to attempt something similar:
- If using polyurethane, use oil-based. Skip water-based entirely. Oil can create a mirror finish, shows less texture, and is soooooo much easier to apply (simply foam brushes). Just buy a stack (or three) of brushes, and toss them after each application. Wasteful, but worth it - and they're next to free anyway.
- Do not apply a coat immediately after sanding. That dust is still in the air! Wait an hour or so (or more).
- Sand with a random orbital (versus hand) between coats, but use high grit sandpaper (I used 600-800). Hand sanding introduces scratches that can get preserved under the next layer of clear coat (no matter how smooth the surface, those lines will be sealed/visible underneath!
- Wait wayyyyy longer than you think before resting on/sanding a newly dry surface. As in, don't flip your piece after a few hours. Wait a day or two. Same applies for sanding!
Took me so many coats/sandings/attempts to get this finish, and only after I switched over to oil.
End grain :)
Left to right: Prototype #1 (rough to test angles), #2 (test cut angles and assembly), and the final pieces (one million steps each)
OneWheels have a home now! The shelves (above) I created to hold/hang gear.