XR constantly losing app connection?



  • I just got my board back from @future-motion and it seems like the BT issue is fixed. It connects super fast and I just went for a nice session and it stayed connected the whole ride with phone in my back pocket. The board came back with my miles still showing so I guess the main controller was not switched out. All I know is it works now like it is suppose to Thanks @future-motion for the quick turn around 11 days total from shipping to return Thanks, Thomas



  • @rfkilowatt @kanguru007 I'm in Argentina so sending to USA is no-way (customs cost as hi as U$S 1000 here).
    I'm electronic engineer and I have the right tools, maybe I will try to solder an external antenna (1/4 lambda). What do you think?



  • @tlamb2 THIS!
    It really works better! I was thinking in opening the board and soldering an external antenna, but this works! I've to test it more time, but great so far!

    You've to enter "Developer Mode" in Android.
    Go to Settings > System Info (the last on the list), then tap 7 times on the Build Number field (also the last field).
    Then go search in settings, and look for AVRCP, then switch to 1.6 as @tlamb2 says.

    That's it!



  • @gasppol Plus it also helps to clear your bluetooth settings in an android phone it seems to get rid of all the old Bluetooth connections making current connections better. In my work van now I am able to see text messages delivered via bluetooth to the vans audio unit which it use to do but suddenly stopped but after resetting my bluetooth that works now also. So it does something.



  • @gasppol Sounds great. Wish there was an iOS version of that fix.



  • For those who are in the market for used boards, what do we need to watch out for? HW version 4208 purchased between August 2018 and December 2018? Were all new boards affected, or only a subset? I can't really tell from skimming through all these posts.



  • @namespaced Pretty much all 4208 boards. 4206 (very first XRs produced) are not affected but did have the bricking issue.



  • @Rado do you know if new boards being shipped today still have this problem?



  • I’ve had a new XR for about a month and have recorded a dozen or more rides with no problems at all. I can walk 60’ away, line of sight, and still communicate with the board. iPhone 6. This issue was the most worrisome for me in before buying the board but doesn’t exist for me. Go figure???



  • @gasppol I’m an EE too. I’m going to try it with a 50Ohm low gain patch antenna and coax I bought from digikey. I’m going to mount it away from the aluminum cover plate. I’ll let you know if it improves things. That great a software change works with android.



  • @Kbnikto51 What hardware and firmware are you running? Maybe they fixed it? I’m running Hardware 4208, firmware 4134.

    To be clear, I can connect to the board when I’m dismounted. I once I get on the board, the phone and my Apple Watch lose connection. I can’t check my speed. I have to stop to check battery strengh. I also can’t track a ride.



  • Anyway, I’ve got news. I fixed it adding an external antenna. Works great now. It took it for a ride and I get realtime speed on my watch. Never worked before.

    I’m trying to find a way to post details on what it looks like. Maybe reddit or imgur.

    The antenna is a tiny little patch antenna that I stuck to the inner plastic part of the controller housing. You do have to unsolder and remount a 0402 cap on the Bluetooth module to remove the internal antenna and use an external one. Not easy, need a really good soldering iron like a Metcal with fine tips.

    Now I’m pretty sure its a signal strenght issue. Maybe it only affect some boards. Getting it reworked by onewheel customer service did not fix it. Maybe they replaced the module, but that was not enough.



  • 4294220D-0C58-47DE-800D-66D03D602F38.jpeg

    Here is the backside of the controller board. That’s the Bluetooth module, ILogic ILT254S. Pin 1 is for the external antenna. Pin 2 is ground. That cap needs to be rotated 90 degrees counter clockwise to switch the output to the external pin. This cap is an 0402, which means 0.04” long by 0.02” wide. Really fucking small! To move it (unsolder and resolder) you need really fine tips and a high quality soldering iron like a Metcal.



  • 79B2AE68-8F0B-48D8-909B-26FC3AE8848D.jpeg

    Sorry this is blurry. Here you can see the cap is moved 90, connecting it to the external ant pin 1. I connected an insulated 24 awg wire to pin1 and I put the wire through the ground via to reach the other side. This was my attempt to keep the impedance of the wire closer to my 50 Ohm antenna (lower its inductance).



  • 63199400-C980-4D54-A879-C3AA1C11BDF2.jpeg

    This is the topside of the controller board. That’s the wire popping through from the backside. I soldered in an H.FL connector. I was able to capture two ground points at 12 and 3 o’clock. This important so you can properly ground the coax. After soldering, I added RTV along the edges for stability (not shown).

    The antenna I bought, [Taoglas FXP74.07.0100A] https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=931-1224, has a U.FL connector. I mistook that for being the same as H.FL which I have lying around my lab. It does not mate well to U.FL. When I get a chance I will swap it for the correct U.FL smt connector. I wanted a connector here so you can disconnect the antenna from the board when you assemble/disassemble because the antenna will be attached to the plastic back shell while the board is bolted to the aluminum pan.



  • 5B872D3C-A039-4127-BD90-A21C456B9F67.jpeg

    This is the antenna I bought. I was just looking for something low gain, that was small and 50 Ohms with a connector. There are hundreds of different ones on digikey that I would think would work.



  • B3B77D0D-FC39-4B37-ACDF-06C9D1617BEB.jpeg

    Here’s were I put the antenna. The adhesive seems really strong. I don’t think it’s coming off. Coax going to the left.

    After that, I put the shell back on to the aluminum plate. You have to reconnect all the connectors while its barely open, because the wires are not that long. Everything then goes back together like it came apart.



  • @gasppol It might be possible that you could use just a short wire as an antenna. I just want to do it as “right” as possible first to get the highest signal strength. If it didn’t work, I would always be wondering if I just fucked it up or the antenna was a bad match.



  • Just an update I have had my board back for a week. I sent it in for Bluetooth connection issues it came back with my original miles so I don't know if the control board was swapped or not, But it works perfectly now I have not lost connection once and I have put 15 miles on it so for me it is fixed.



  • @rfkilowatt 4082/4134. SN 19031027##. I have no, nada, nil, zero connection issues.


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