XR constantly losing app connection?



  • 79B2AE68-8F0B-48D8-909B-26FC3AE8848D.jpeg

    Sorry this is blurry. Here you can see the cap is moved 90, connecting it to the external ant pin 1. I connected an insulated 24 awg wire to pin1 and I put the wire through the ground via to reach the other side. This was my attempt to keep the impedance of the wire closer to my 50 Ohm antenna (lower its inductance).



  • 63199400-C980-4D54-A879-C3AA1C11BDF2.jpeg

    This is the topside of the controller board. That’s the wire popping through from the backside. I soldered in an H.FL connector. I was able to capture two ground points at 12 and 3 o’clock. This important so you can properly ground the coax. After soldering, I added RTV along the edges for stability (not shown).

    The antenna I bought, [Taoglas FXP74.07.0100A] https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=931-1224, has a U.FL connector. I mistook that for being the same as H.FL which I have lying around my lab. It does not mate well to U.FL. When I get a chance I will swap it for the correct U.FL smt connector. I wanted a connector here so you can disconnect the antenna from the board when you assemble/disassemble because the antenna will be attached to the plastic back shell while the board is bolted to the aluminum pan.



  • 5B872D3C-A039-4127-BD90-A21C456B9F67.jpeg

    This is the antenna I bought. I was just looking for something low gain, that was small and 50 Ohms with a connector. There are hundreds of different ones on digikey that I would think would work.



  • B3B77D0D-FC39-4B37-ACDF-06C9D1617BEB.jpeg

    Here’s were I put the antenna. The adhesive seems really strong. I don’t think it’s coming off. Coax going to the left.

    After that, I put the shell back on to the aluminum plate. You have to reconnect all the connectors while its barely open, because the wires are not that long. Everything then goes back together like it came apart.



  • @gasppol It might be possible that you could use just a short wire as an antenna. I just want to do it as “right” as possible first to get the highest signal strength. If it didn’t work, I would always be wondering if I just fucked it up or the antenna was a bad match.



  • Just an update I have had my board back for a week. I sent it in for Bluetooth connection issues it came back with my original miles so I don't know if the control board was swapped or not, But it works perfectly now I have not lost connection once and I have put 15 miles on it so for me it is fixed.



  • @rfkilowatt 4082/4134. SN 19031027##. I have no, nada, nil, zero connection issues.



  • @Kbnikto51 I definitely think it’s limited to certain ones based on the reply’s. Problem was they didn’t fix it when I sent mine in.



  • @rfkilowatt you're awesome!
    Such a detailed post! I twist my ankle windsurfing on Saturday, so the only ones riding my OW XR are my friends. Lots of scratches and lot of envy. The BT connection gets really better with the new Android settings, but is far from perfect.
    I will use my rest time to follow your instructions step by step. I don't have a METCAL at home, but I will try to look at the board and find a way of repairing it.
    I will update accordingly.
    Cheers!



  • Update: Mantas Kačinskas (a Facebook OW Group user) suggest to change the Stand-By configuration of the OW App.
    Yo have to set your Android phone to 'Developer Mode' (check here).
    Then you have to go to Developer Settings, System, Advanced Options, Developer Options, scroll a lot until 'StandBy Apps', look for OW App, and ser a higher priority setting: Frequent o Working State.
    I've tried and now while the phone is locked, the OW App seems to keep connected.
    Anyway. Theses are work arounds, not REAL solutions to the connectivity problems of some BT modules. Since it is a RF problem, is a little bit of hit and miss. Some users have better lucky than others.


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