Reviving a destroyed Pint

  • @Lia said in Reviving a destroyed Pint:

    I cut the traces out by hand from a 0.1mm copper sheet.

    exacto blade and stencil or snips?

  • @NotSure Tried using an exacto but it dulled too often and began to tear rather than cut.
    Printed off a template, stuck it down then just used a pair of sharp scissors to cut it in the end. Was thin enough to not take a lot of effort.

    Using scissors did introduce twisting in the traces so I had to give them a good flattening for a while with the double sided tape helping keep them flush.

  • @Lia -- Thrilling it is to watch your process and progress!

  • @Lia You should definitely get the “Badass/Genius” badge for this achievement. This project has been fun to watch.

  • @blkwalnutgrwr @HanahsDax Glad it's fun to follow along :)
    Hopefully going to get more done tomorrow and maybe spin up the motor for the first time (without it detonating like last time).

  • Did lots more testing today. 2 steps forward one step back sort of deal though.

    I have managed to replace the power button with one that is operated by magic!

    Okay it's not Magic, it's a magnet. More specifically a reed switch replacing the stock switch with a magnet hidden underneath the OW logo on my gloves.

    Why did I do this? I have no idea but I did it and it works!
    On the plus side it were to ever break it's not like there is any large metal attached to it that could bash the PCB >.>


    Now onto if the board actually works...
    Well Yes But Actually No.png

    The board does and sort of doesn't work. It'll turn on, boot correctly and if I bypass the footpad I can prime the board. I can even get it to move BUT.... oh my god the noise that comes from that poor motor!

    Typically noise like that on the Onewheel is a loose hub bolt. I can assure you these are cranked down so I don't think it's that. It could possibly be the controller/battery wiggling around as those are still press fit into the rails.

    Assuming it's not that it seems like I'll be taking the motor apart, I have 3 suspects as to what's causing the noise. In order of what I think is most likely:

    1. Bad bearing(s). Considering the absolute state of the hub I wouldn't hesitate to suspect one of the bearings has died. The fact that when pressure is taken off the left side it gets quieter leads me to believe the right bearing might be shot. It does spin cleanly though so I have doubts.
    2. Damaged cabling between the controller and motor hub. I think the 3 main wires that control the 3 poles are fine but I wonder if maybe one of the sensor wires could be damaged and thus it cannot perfectly locate what position the motor is in which could lead to vibrations as it bounce back and forth between the unknown positions.
    3. Faulty Hall sensor. If one of the sensors has died then the same theory from #2 applies as these actually read what position rotationally the motor is in.

    I don't suspect the controller electronics. If it had a fault I'm sure it would have manifested itself in earlier testing.

    Regardless of that, congratulations Pint OW131223 for "passing" your first test ride on the road to recovery.

  • @Lia said in Reviving a destroyed Pint:

    a reed switch replacing the stock switch with a magnet hidden underneath the OW logo on my gloves

    You've discovered the solution for someone hopping on our boards and taking off! Let them get up to speed, then shut it down!!! @Lia, you should repost this on the theft prevention thread . . . :D

  • @OneDan Good idea, I'll finish up the designs for the printed parts and add a post there.

    It's unbelievably simple to do. Just the switch alone and some silicone around it would suffice if looks weren't a factor.

  • @Lia sounds like an old vacuum but it works! Very cool.

  • @NotSure Not a happy noise at all. I'm sure it's something simple though, just got to find the cause.

  • @Lia -- Sounds to my damaged ears like the rapid, flutter vibrations of a buzzer. To my eyes it looked like the buzzer noise only occurred while moving -- not just standing still. Interesting puzzle. Good luck with it!

  • @blkwalnutgrwr Sounds much worse in person I assure you lol. The video doesn't quite capture just how loud it actually is!
    Like you say it occurs only under certain circumstances but how it manifests doesn't narrow it down too much.

    Will give an update once I've found the issue :)

  • I'm in!

    Holy crap that hub was hard to take apart. It was pretty tight but I eventually managed to break it lose after plenty of oil and destroying a few bits of spare wood to act as a dampener when hammering the axle out. Once whatever was stuck came loose I was able to push it through all the way with just my thumbs.

    Looks like one bearing is utterly shot. It's got loads of play in it, enough that I can wobble the plate against the axle with the bearing seal being the bit that moves. Trouble is it won't come off. Since it's 6PM I'll hold off bringing out the big guns to rip it off but tomorrow it's coming off!
    The scrapes on the hub wasn't me, that was the Van! Same side as the suspected dodgy bearing so makes sense.

    Under close inspection it looks like there is some corrosion on one of the stator cores along with matching rust blobs on some of the magnets within the hub. Doesn't bother me too much as I'll just clean it off. Outside of that I think this might be a simple bearing swap... I hope.

    Any recommendations on new bearings? Obvious choice seems to be Craft&Ride but curious if anyone has a special brand they use instead?

  • @NotSure RGB LEDs are my guilty pleasure. I shouldn't love them as much as I do lol. Not sure how much current the 5v rail on the Pint can handle but I'm sure I can find a datasheet.

    I am planning on doing something with LED's on this, thinking of integrating them on the rails for a special design.
    Have yet to pickup the project again, feels bad leaving the Pint unattended across from me on the desk.

  • You are so close to reviving that poor Pint.... Bravo for all that effort and I bet you are the first with a Steve Austin (Lee Majors) Pint (just not the $6M).

  • snow-white-onewheel-dust-gif.gif
    Been a while since I touched this... I didn't forget!

    That noise was still bugging me but I finally found the problem.
    I though if I mount all the parts it would maybe stop it, no it made it worse!!! Well that's not right...

    On closer inspection if I added the fender it parted my rails enough that the battery housing was no longer snug. Removing it I found even when snug there was a tiny bit of play.

    Being as I want to redo the rails anyway I went ahead and printed up some templates to make the mounting points for the battery since I had yet to actually do that.

    And guess what, NOISE GONE! 99.9% GONE!
    Pint Mute smol.jpg

    Best get back to work on that footpad since that's next! Hope it works fine so I can get to making this look the part.

    Happy Pint~

  • While fiddling around with the FSR (apparently I went overkill on the spacing) I've taken a brief look into how I'll finish up the rails.

    For anyone interested about the footpad sensor on the Pint (maybe the same for other models) the FSR triggers pad activation when the resistance between the 3.3v pad pin and ground is 1k ohm or less.
    My MK1 setup couldn't reach that without me putting an unreasonable weight in a single spot so will be reworking that design when I work up the courage to cut another set of traces out by hand.

    Thinking of having a rocky low poly like design but with a glowing red space between the individual rocks.
    Onewheel Pint Render 1.png
    Onewheel Pint Render 2.png

    Lighting these initially felt near impossible with how little space there is to work with till I came across EL tape.
    It's near paper thin and glows when injected with an AC voltage which can be run off a small 12v driver circuit.
    Better yet, you can cut some versions to nearly any shape you want.
    alt text

    Plan is to create a rigid backplate, put the EL tape atop, then a thin layer of acrylic to protect the EL tape and finally attach the rocky pattern that I'll have to print.

    For the driver I'll have to place the driver board in the controller housing and see if I can step down the 63v to 12v to drive this. Fingers crossed it works as I think this'll look pretty cool and very unique.

    Any thoughts?

  • @Lia said in Reviving a destroyed Pint:

    Any thoughts?

    I used LED's and have never used EL tape before but I like your design.

    Transparent filament swapped out at 1-2mm with a dark metallic filament might look cool.

    Could perhaps cnc strips of transparent acrylic and paint them instead of printing them. Could even invert the design use the smooth transparent surface as exterior and paint/fill those engraved interior features.

    Could maybe use LED strips and run them down channels engraved into acrylic.

    Could just power them with a half dozen cr2032's. Just slap on some decent vhb and presto!

    As someone who has experimented with ground effect lighting on their board for the sole purpose of ez night riding on dark, mostly unlit streets without a flashlight: illuminating the ground is more visually impactful as well as useful for general area illumination without disturbing one's night-adapted vision.

  • @NotSure The lighting is mostly to just glow through the cracks and not server a purpose other than look cool, I might opt for underglow using a more traditional LED strip later on. Ground effect lighting looks very cool and as you say better for the night-adapted vision.

    Good suggestion with CNC on some acrylic. Currently don't have access to a machine but hopefully when I move to another property it'll have a garage or some detached building I can put big machinery in. For the time being I'm doing what I can in an apartment since noise and space are an issue.

Log in to reply