Reviving a destroyed Pint
LidPhones last edited by
You are so close to reviving that poor Pint.... Bravo for all that effort and I bet you are the first with a Steve Austin (Lee Majors) Pint (just not the $6M).
Been a while since I touched this... I didn't forget!
That noise was still bugging me but I finally found the problem.
I though if I mount all the parts it would maybe stop it, no it made it worse!!! Well that's not right...
On closer inspection if I added the fender it parted my rails enough that the battery housing was no longer snug. Removing it I found even when snug there was a tiny bit of play.
Being as I want to redo the rails anyway I went ahead and printed up some templates to make the mounting points for the battery since I had yet to actually do that.
And guess what, NOISE GONE! 99.9% GONE!
Best get back to work on that footpad since that's next! Hope it works fine so I can get to making this look the part.
While fiddling around with the FSR (apparently I went overkill on the spacing) I've taken a brief look into how I'll finish up the rails.
For anyone interested about the footpad sensor on the Pint (maybe the same for other models) the FSR triggers pad activation when the resistance between the 3.3v pad pin and ground is 1k ohm or less.
My MK1 setup couldn't reach that without me putting an unreasonable weight in a single spot so will be reworking that design when I work up the courage to cut another set of traces out by hand.
Thinking of having a rocky low poly like design but with a glowing red space between the individual rocks.
Lighting these initially felt near impossible with how little space there is to work with till I came across EL tape.
It's near paper thin and glows when injected with an AC voltage which can be run off a small 12v driver circuit.
Better yet, you can cut some versions to nearly any shape you want.
Plan is to create a rigid backplate, put the EL tape atop, then a thin layer of acrylic to protect the EL tape and finally attach the rocky pattern that I'll have to print.
For the driver I'll have to place the driver board in the controller housing and see if I can step down the 63v to 12v to drive this. Fingers crossed it works as I think this'll look pretty cool and very unique.
NotSure last edited by NotSure
I used LED's and have never used EL tape before but I like your design.
Transparent filament swapped out at 1-2mm with a dark metallic filament might look cool.
Could perhaps cnc strips of transparent acrylic and paint them instead of printing them. Could even invert the design use the smooth transparent surface as exterior and paint/fill those engraved interior features.
Could maybe use LED strips and run them down channels engraved into acrylic.
Could just power them with a half dozen cr2032's. Just slap on some decent vhb and presto!
As someone who has experimented with ground effect lighting on their board for the sole purpose of ez night riding on dark, mostly unlit streets without a flashlight: illuminating the ground is more visually impactful as well as useful for general area illumination without disturbing one's night-adapted vision.
@NotSure The lighting is mostly to just glow through the cracks and not server a purpose other than look cool, I might opt for underglow using a more traditional LED strip later on. Ground effect lighting looks very cool and as you say better for the night-adapted vision.
Good suggestion with CNC on some acrylic. Currently don't have access to a machine but hopefully when I move to another property it'll have a garage or some detached building I can put big machinery in. For the time being I'm doing what I can in an apartment since noise and space are an issue.
Alright, after tearing apart my over-engineered FSR and managing to not trash the traces when transplanting them (curse past me for using good double sided tape!) I still couldn't get the DIY FSR to activate both sides simultaneously.
Essentially my FSR isn't "calibrated" to have a low enough resistance under certain loads. Each pad gets below 1k when depressed but combined I think the OW needs lower resistance still.
I suspect some of the copper is a bit too tarnished to make good contact with the velostat plus the traces might be too wide to apply enough pressure.
I could use some spaced out ribs to apply more force over a smaller surface area but at that point I'm playing a dangerous game of bodge™.
Seeing many mods to boards end in misery or worse I'm going to hold off continuing the DIY FSR to preserve my safety and also dissuade others from taking the risk. After spending a few months working on various footpad alterations and alternatives I've come to the conclusion it's generally not worth risking my safety and potentially encouraging others to risk theirs...
... That said the Pint rebuild is still carrying on. In fact I ordered a set of genuine footpads and took it for a spin, no external hardware to get the board running! (No vid, sorry I wasn't presentable when testing)
So what's left?
- Redo the rails (again!?!?).
- Complete the custom rail guards.
- Model and print custom bumpers.
- Finally bless the board with a name.
Regarding the name I've thought long and hard about it. Since this board has been through hell and back (several times), been reborn and defied my expectations I wanted to give it a name that matched. Sure I could be basic and just call it Phoenix but it's pretty common and doesn't quite vibe with me. I have however landed on one that has since inspired a lot of the tweaks and themed alterations I'm making. What is the name you might ask? Well that's a secret for now, you'll just have to wait and see ;)
Here's some sneaky peakys at what's going on right now with the build and design. Blurred some bits that are a dead giveaway.
One thing to note, I didn't design either the footpads or bumper, I've just modified them to fit my needs or tweaked some critical dimensions. Both are downloaded from others that did the hard work. I have had to modify them since they didn't seem to quite match stock dimensions perfectly and the bumper itself needed more tweaks to fit my rail alterations (flattened out the curve). I don't know who actually modelled the bumper so I'll have to check with whoever sent me it on Discord since they deserve credit <3
With the deadline met for the forum art piece I'll be balancing this and that for the next few <insert however long it takes>.
b0ardski last edited by
@Lia girl you're such a tease! but you should have blacked out instead of blurred it.
your brilliance is showing, art, tech, and love of the float coming together for a win!!
@b0ardski Aha but then you'd have no chance of guessing, I couldn't possibly take away a challenge from all you internet detectives out there. Besides it's not like I haven't laced former posts with hints ;)
NotSure last edited by
After spending a few months working on various footpad alterations and alternatives I've come to the conclusion it's generally not worth risking my safety and potentially encouraging others to risk theirs...
Kinda high risk considering the stakes. Glad to see you scrap it honestly.
stinkyface last edited by
@stinkyface Not quite, cool name though!
Been working bit by bit on this. Was meant to have finished the rails this weekend but because of the heatwave I've been unable to get as much done. However I've done a bit so I'll share the progress :)
Wanted to redo the controller housing to focus more on the thermals. I wasn't conviced that little 50x25mm heatsink was enough to dissipate the heat so I redesigned the housing to accept a larger 3mm thick metal plate.
Used the big mitre saw wifey got me for my birthday last year to cut the metal to size. Forgot how terrifyingly loud it was.
Need to print off the standoffs for the controller board to rest on over the heat sink plus make a raised section to aid in the thermal transfer. I think that should be enough material to at least act as a large enough heat sponge considering the XR had less thermal mass to work with.
While doing that I've been working on the rear bumper. Used the existing front bumper as a guide to model the rear because they're fortunately very similar geometrically. Need to redo the one in the image because there is some extra material that's clashing with the battery housing. Fingers crossed the next one fits perfectly.
Also got a proper router table to redo the rails and get them more accurately cut since the first set have some mistakes. The table itself doesn't fit my Bosch router but I made an adapter plate to get it to mount properly.
Made a big mess with that, it did however lead to way more smoother cuts with a lot less chatter which is good since the first rails are really rough where I milled off the 0.3mm inside to get them to slide over the battery, hub and controller.
Was extra careful to get these hub bolt holes spot on this time since the first set had a slight offset.
Printed some templates to help get the holes just right. This is for the rear of the left rail.
Had never actually cut the charger port hole on the first set, thankfully with the template I nailed it.
Hopefully the heat goes away soon. Booked off this week and next to get this, the art and some more video's done but if the heat persists I'm unsure if I'll manage. We'll see.
Have some more pics, nearly done the controller housing
(MK11... I probably spent as much prototyping as I would have just buying a working board lol)
Here it is in the real world. CAD drawings aren't any good unless you can turn them into a physical object.
Why have I not yet put it in the Pint?
Well the big heat sink won't reach the PCB to draw heat away yet. Currently I'd need a 2.5-3mm thick thermal pad to bridge the gap since the standoffs (made to spec) raise the board.
I've got a 2mm thick aluminium sheet coming so I can place that in the gap I left creating a physical pad reaching up to touch the PCB (between a thermal pad like stock)
Once that arrives I'll cut it down, attach it to the top of the 3mm plate with the spacer surrounding it (hence the cutout in the top print shown earlier).
Once complete as I probably mentioned before I'll be uploading the CAD, BOM and some instructions on how to make one too.
Kept it in the realm of possibility for anyone with basic tools... excluding that M20x1.5 tap which isn't common... shush they're cheap :)
Pint is technically completed. Although I still want to finish styling it up and adding some more custom mods I wanted to at least put the "FIXED" stamp of approval on this for now since it's been sitting in bits on my bench for a while.
To make sure the controller housing I made is actually sealed I gave the controller housing the old "sinky sinky glug glug test"...
...Yes I drowned it underwater for a minute to see how much water got in. Trial by fire... or... water in this case.
A little bit managed to get in but it all came in from the motor/ footpad and battery connector holes. A bit of silicone around them should seal those up making my printed housing waterproof. The additional thermal mass I added seems to keep the ESC cool too which is great, no need to worry about it melting after enough usage.
After a complete assembly all seems to work as expected. Zips around happily withoutmaking that horrid noise and charges fine off my XR charger (when using a little custom adapter). I do need to redo the rails again but I'll have to get a pillar drill since each failure has always been due to my drill walking off the mark even if I use a centre punch. Will wait a bit to see if I have enough leftover to get a cheap one off eBay. This latest case of my drill walking caused the controller to be mounted too far forward and in turn the footpad too. You'll see a 2mm gap between the fender and footpad due to this. Otherwise it's pretty much on point.
Anyway, here's a few pics of it :)
Slushy finally gets to sit alongside her little bro. I'm still amazed how much smaller the Pint is compared to the XR.
Sirgu last edited by
It's absolute joy to follow your in-depth reports on any of your doings.
Keep it up! :}
@Lia said ):
... I'll have to get a pillar drill ...
I'm amazed how much investments you are willing to put in the project. My own stubborn standpoint (not sating to be the best one) on equipments is - if anything takes a load of space out of your working area, it better be good! And pillar drills of any kind are big. You might don't wanna get a cheap random one to start sorting out all the wobbles and non-stiffness.
There are a handful of jigs out there.
I've got this hand-held one (merely woodworking oriented). But if you manage to find smth similar with THIS ... being more like flat frame with less "simple" clamping bolts leaving more space to add some clamping screws up to your liking accordingly the characteristics of workpiece material.
Plus usage of cobalt twist drill bits .. plus comfortable and precise hand-held tool .. plus some practice on samples first .. and you can make wonders.
If you are more experienced with step drill bits and find more trust in those .. then ignore everything I just put down.
@Sirgu Thanks :) Glad it's interesting. I hope it'll be useful to anyone else repairing a Pint in the future.
Once MyMiniFactory has finished checking the files I'm planning on releasing the lower controller housing for others to download and print. I imagine the DIY community will make good use of it.
Good call on the guides and jigs. I was tempted to make yet another 3d printed jig for these seeing as I've now gone through 4 lengths of U-channel but told myself I'd totally not mess it up this time >.> Was convinced the deep centre punch I did for each was enough.
I might still opt for a pillar drill, there are a few one on eBay that look okay, nothing exotic and look simple enough to dial in if there is any play. I like the ease of these over a jig but I'll see if things change as I think about it over the coming days while I weigh up what is left for spending.
I could find a spot for it but eventually I'll run low on space in the
NotSure last edited by NotSure
@Lia lol that really is quite the trophy! glub glub
Sirgu last edited by
That's some good looking workshop right there! You sure will figure out a place for it.
No wonder you've got surveillance camera peeking over the settlement of machines.
NotSure last edited by
@Lia i was wondering if it were possible to swap the pint controller for an xr? It would need a quart mod i suppose. Would it be possible to use the stock xr battery somehow?'
I wonder if anyone ever tried that before? If not, it's kinda right up ur alley skill-wise, and u technically have all the parts.
@NotSure I'm not sure it is. At least not a 1:1 swap since I imagine the communication between the 2 wouldn't line up without some tweaking somewhere.
Would the goal be to get XR specs in a Pint package?
Personally I'd love to get my hands on one of these before attempting anything like that ;)
(From Adam Savage's trip to FM's factory featuring Kyle. It's how they test and program the controllers)
I love Adam's energy in this and how Kyle reciprocates it back, just a joy to watch.