Reviving a destroyed Pint



  • Been working bit by bit on this. Was meant to have finished the rails this weekend but because of the heatwave I've been unable to get as much done. However I've done a bit so I'll share the progress :)

    Wanted to redo the controller housing to focus more on the thermals. I wasn't conviced that little 50x25mm heatsink was enough to dissipate the heat so I redesigned the housing to accept a larger 3mm thick metal plate.
    IMG_7380.JPG

    Used the big mitre saw wifey got me for my birthday last year to cut the metal to size. Forgot how terrifyingly loud it was.
    IMG_7460.JPG

    Need to print off the standoffs for the controller board to rest on over the heat sink plus make a raised section to aid in the thermal transfer. I think that should be enough material to at least act as a large enough heat sponge considering the XR had less thermal mass to work with.
    While doing that I've been working on the rear bumper. Used the existing front bumper as a guide to model the rear because they're fortunately very similar geometrically. Need to redo the one in the image because there is some extra material that's clashing with the battery housing. Fingers crossed the next one fits perfectly.
    IMG_7459.JPG

    Also got a proper router table to redo the rails and get them more accurately cut since the first set have some mistakes. The table itself doesn't fit my Bosch router but I made an adapter plate to get it to mount properly.
    IMG_7388.JPG
    IMG_7386.JPG

    Made a big mess with that, it did however lead to way more smoother cuts with a lot less chatter which is good since the first rails are really rough where I milled off the 0.3mm inside to get them to slide over the battery, hub and controller.
    IMG_7393.JPG

    Was extra careful to get these hub bolt holes spot on this time since the first set had a slight offset.
    IMG_7427.JPG

    Printed some templates to help get the holes just right. This is for the rear of the left rail.
    IMG_7449.JPG

    Had never actually cut the charger port hole on the first set, thankfully with the template I nailed it.
    IMG_7451.JPG
    IMG_7457.JPG

    Hopefully the heat goes away soon. Booked off this week and next to get this, the art and some more video's done but if the heat persists I'm unsure if I'll manage. We'll see.



  • Have some more pics, nearly done the controller housing
    (MK11... I probably spent as much prototyping as I would have just buying a working board lol)
    Onewheel Pint Controller Housing 1.jpg

    Onewheel Pint Controller Housing 2.jpg

    Onewheel Pint Controller Housing 3.jpg

    Onewheel Pint Controller Housing 4.jpg

    Here it is in the real world. CAD drawings aren't any good unless you can turn them into a physical object.
    IMG_7526.JPG

    IMG_7528.JPG

    IMG_7532.JPG

    IMG_7536.JPG

    IMG_7537.JPG

    IMG_7538.JPG

    IMG_7539.JPG

    Why have I not yet put it in the Pint?

    Well the big heat sink won't reach the PCB to draw heat away yet. Currently I'd need a 2.5-3mm thick thermal pad to bridge the gap since the standoffs (made to spec) raise the board.

    I've got a 2mm thick aluminium sheet coming so I can place that in the gap I left creating a physical pad reaching up to touch the PCB (between a thermal pad like stock)
    IMG_7540.JPG

    Once that arrives I'll cut it down, attach it to the top of the 3mm plate with the spacer surrounding it (hence the cutout in the top print shown earlier).
    Onewheel Pint Controller Housing 5.jpg
    Once complete as I probably mentioned before I'll be uploading the CAD, BOM and some instructions on how to make one too.
    Kept it in the realm of possibility for anyone with basic tools... excluding that M20x1.5 tap which isn't common... shush they're cheap :)



  • Pint is technically completed. Although I still want to finish styling it up and adding some more custom mods I wanted to at least put the "FIXED" stamp of approval on this for now since it's been sitting in bits on my bench for a while.

    To make sure the controller housing I made is actually sealed I gave the controller housing the old "sinky sinky glug glug test"...
    Untitled.png
    ...Yes I drowned it underwater for a minute to see how much water got in. Trial by fire... or... water in this case.
    A little bit managed to get in but it all came in from the motor/ footpad and battery connector holes. A bit of silicone around them should seal those up making my printed housing waterproof. The additional thermal mass I added seems to keep the ESC cool too which is great, no need to worry about it melting after enough usage.

    After a complete assembly all seems to work as expected. Zips around happily withoutmaking that horrid noise and charges fine off my XR charger (when using a little custom adapter). I do need to redo the rails again but I'll have to get a pillar drill since each failure has always been due to my drill walking off the mark even if I use a centre punch. Will wait a bit to see if I have enough leftover to get a cheap one off eBay. This latest case of my drill walking caused the controller to be mounted too far forward and in turn the footpad too. You'll see a 2mm gap between the fender and footpad due to this. Otherwise it's pretty much on point.

    Anyway, here's a few pics of it :)
    IMG_7798.JPG
    IMG_7803.JPG
    IMG_7805.JPG

    Slushy finally gets to sit alongside her little bro. I'm still amazed how much smaller the Pint is compared to the XR.
    IMG_7807.JPG



  • It's absolute joy to follow your in-depth reports on any of your doings.
    Keep it up! :}

    @Lia said ):

    ... I'll have to get a pillar drill ...

    I'm amazed how much investments you are willing to put in the project. My own stubborn standpoint (not sating to be the best one) on equipments is - if anything takes a load of space out of your working area, it better be good! And pillar drills of any kind are big. You might don't wanna get a cheap random one to start sorting out all the wobbles and non-stiffness.

    There are a handful of jigs out there.
    I've got this hand-held one (merely woodworking oriented). But if you manage to find smth similar with THIS ... being more like flat frame with less "simple" clamping bolts leaving more space to add some clamping screws up to your liking accordingly the characteristics of workpiece material.
    Plus usage of cobalt twist drill bits .. plus comfortable and precise hand-held tool .. plus some practice on samples first .. and you can make wonders.

    If you are more experienced with step drill bits and find more trust in those .. then ignore everything I just put down.



  • @Sirgu Thanks :) Glad it's interesting. I hope it'll be useful to anyone else repairing a Pint in the future.
    Once MyMiniFactory has finished checking the files I'm planning on releasing the lower controller housing for others to download and print. I imagine the DIY community will make good use of it.

    Good call on the guides and jigs. I was tempted to make yet another 3d printed jig for these seeing as I've now gone through 4 lengths of U-channel but told myself I'd totally not mess it up this time >.> Was convinced the deep centre punch I did for each was enough.

    I might still opt for a pillar drill, there are a few one on eBay that look okay, nothing exotic and look simple enough to dial in if there is any play. I like the ease of these over a jig but I'll see if things change as I think about it over the coming days while I weigh up what is left for spending.
    I could find a spot for it but eventually I'll run low on space in the spareroom workshop.
    IMG_7795.JPG



  • @Lia lol that really is quite the trophy! glub glub



  • That's some good looking workshop right there! You sure will figure out a place for it.

    No wonder you've got surveillance camera peeking over the settlement of machines.



  • @Lia i was wondering if it were possible to swap the pint controller for an xr? It would need a quart mod i suppose. Would it be possible to use the stock xr battery somehow?'

    I wonder if anyone ever tried that before? If not, it's kinda right up ur alley skill-wise, and u technically have all the parts.



  • @NotSure I'm not sure it is. At least not a 1:1 swap since I imagine the communication between the 2 wouldn't line up without some tweaking somewhere.

    Would the goal be to get XR specs in a Pint package?

    Personally I'd love to get my hands on one of these before attempting anything like that ;)
    (From Adam Savage's trip to FM's factory featuring Kyle. It's how they test and program the controllers)
    Untitled.jpg
    I love Adam's energy in this and how Kyle reciprocates it back, just a joy to watch.



  • @NotSure -- Aren't the 'growler' and 'prowler' mods mixing and matching Pint and XR parts?



  • @blkwalnutgrwr said in Reviving a destroyed Pint:

    @NotSure -- Aren't the 'growler' and 'prowler' mods mixing and matching Pint and XR parts?

    I have zero idea. I'm still a bit new to the 3rd party accessory market.

    @Lia yeah XR stats in a Pint package sounds pretty sweet. If I could swap form factors easily, I probably would.

    Although riding on the beach has been fun. Gotta thank that beachball-sized Vega for that.



  • Took the Pint out for it's first field test (literally). Haven't made the decorative float plate to cover the bare aluminium rails however I'm almost tempted to keep it that way.... almost tempted...

    Anyway here are some pics of how that went :)
    Untitled1.jpg

    Untitled2.jpg

    IMG_7910.JPG

    Managed to run the battery down all the way with the controller temps never reaching above 32c (was 22c outside at the time) so I call that a success.



  • @Lia this is meant to be a compliment, it looks stock! Looking fwd to seeing you add more of that Lia flair!



  • @stinkyface Thanks :) Tried to keep it as true to stock as I could with only minor tweaks so glad it shows.

    Shame I couldn’t adjust the charge port easily else I’d have had completely smooth rails.



  • @Lia said in Reviving a destroyed Pint:

    so I call that a success.

    me too! great thread



  • Amazing road to recovery!

    @Lia Will this magnet-magic operated power button function if ever you additionally apply some other materials onto those smooth bare rails?



  • @SirguIt Cheers :)
    The reed switch still works at a decent distance so I'll be able to put the extra 3mm worth of float plate on top. I ended up swapping the door reed sensor for the bare component which was much more sensitive so worked at a greater distance and allows me to just wave my hand along the rail to activate/ deactivate.

    Working on putting one in the XR but have yet to verify that it doesn't somehow pickup any magnetic noise within the controller and turn off mid-ride lol.



  • Still waiting for MMF to scan the files for the controller housing. Contacted them to see if its just stuck so in the meantime anyone that wants it here it is :)
    https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-onewheel-pint-lower-controller-housing-183270
    Onewheel Pint Lower Controller Housing.jpg


Log in to reply