The dreaded Error 16 code
NotSure last edited by NotSure
(screamed so much I went light headed...omg...)
Wrong thread. This belongs on r/blackmagicfuckery. I'm still in awe. congratulations @Lia . and @HanahsDax too! had to convert it but there it is! 11K km is approx 6900 miles just to be sure it wasn't urs..
blkwalnutgrwr last edited by
@Lia -- You fixed it! Exciting news! Congratulations! Great work!
@NotSure Felt like it, I kept staring at the app for a solid 10 seconds wondering if I somehow wired my controller to it which was laying across the room. I still don't believe it honestly xD
On a slightly sad note I got to watch the controller slip many positions on the mileage list. That being said I'm happy knowing it won't be stuck at 11214km anymore.
@blkwalnutgrwr Thanks :) Just the home stretch of putting a new motor connector on it, giving it a few test runs to make sure it doesn't die again then ship it back :)
Oh-my. Another success story drived by great skills and persistence. Gratz!
blkwalnutgrwr last edited by
@Lia -- Very impressive to me in your process: The two oscilloscope images and your very sensible interpretation of them.
@blkwalnutgrwr Thanks :)
The signals look really simple, presumably a chip could be made to replicate that first packet from another board then continue passing through the rest as normal to bypass FM's serialisation on later models so you could pack swap again while retaining the functionality of battery updates. That is assuming there is a working BMS to clone the signal and they don't send repeat serial checks.
Personally I'd call it a doppelganger chip (or DGang chip), but I'll leave the naming to whoever actually builds one since I barely have a working grasp on this lol.
NotSure last edited by
@Lia all u need is a tiny cnc for carving ur own pcb's, a toaster, and a decent reflower (toaster ovens aren't decent reflowers imo) and i bet ur current skills are more than sufficient to get started. I sorta biff it when it comes to the patience lol. caveman smash!
@NotSure Aha not even going to touch this one with a barge pole. I don't own an XR that would spit errors at me if I got the serial data wrong, let alone a working knowledge on how to efficiently clone, store and send the data D:
Plenty more technically literate floaters that could do this. JW essentially did something similar with their little JWFFM chip although the purpose was slightly different.
NotSure last edited by
Lia last edited by Lia
Prepped it all to go back together. Replacement motor port came so took the time to remove old solder and put this new one on. Managed to find one local so shipping wasn't too long or pricey :)
Got the last one they had in stock too >:D
What I didn't realise which had been throwing me off while searching is the plastic under the port in all of the product images is actually just a removable piece to protect the pins. Ended up asking Reddit and everyone said this was indeed the right one.
I'd been thinking that was just a variation of the port and just couldn't find the right one. Doh...
Afterwards did some testing and found literally all the pins on the motor/footpad connector were dead. There is a tiny space between the PCB and the port so any excess force closes the gap and severs the traces and solder.
Probably what happened to mine last year so did the same fix which holds up for me and I bet will outlast the other solder joints.
Put some hot glue over the wire joints then re-assembled the housing. Dragged Slushy's controller out and slid the 4206 one in to take it for a small spin round the apartment.
All works from what I can see. Sensors, bluetooth, gyros, ESC and charge port :D
On a slightly different note from the brief ride round in the apartment I noticed the 4206 and 4208 seem to ride ever so slightly differently. 4206 feels slightly more locked in and elevated than my 4208 which tends to have it's nose down a bit more and feels loosey goosey (which I enjoy regardless).
Left it on charge for the night so I can give it a proper test tomorrow to make sure it is rideable before boxing it up and sending it back to continue it's legacy.
Didn't think this was worth making a new reply so added to the end of the last one~
Alright did testing, works perfectly fine :)
Went out to pickup a drill press and took the controller for a spin and then later rode around with my sis on the Pint as she wants a PintX so... had her practice on my Pint offroad for my second test.
My suspicious were correct, the 4206 is so much more locked in than my 4208. It feels snappier and more awake which took a little bit of adjusting to my usual ride style. My timing for speedbumps, curbs and terrain shifts needed a lil tweak.
Put Slushy's controller back in and now decide how best to ship this back since something else is going in the box.
Presumably this'll be the last update before Dax has it back :)
For anyone curious what the end result of this all was. R49 and U17 had died.
Both had shorted which caused the battery to no longer report it's statistics to the controller which generates error 16.
If your board has error 16 and the harness looks fine check if R49 is reading open and replace it with an equivelent resistor (121ohm in this case).
If that still doesn't work purchase a VP1781 RS-485 Transceiver and replace U17 with it. Make sure all the pads are connected and that there are no dead traces to and from the chip.