Flightfin Switch (aka Pinout on Xr Footpad Connector)
Lia last edited by Lia
can i just wire the left and right and additional switch all together to have the footpad fully triggered whenever one of them in engaged?
Can do, it's how I tested my Pint when I didn't have a footpad.
I wired in an old arcade button (because it was the only momentary switch I had laying around). Funnily enough it's how Kyle first got the early prototypes going too.
Linky : https://cargocollective.com/kdoerksen/Onewheel
However you want to have both footpad and the switch so I recommend getting a 2P1T switch (2 Pole 1 Throw, also known as DPST or Double Pole Single Throw) so that when the switch is connected the L and R pads don't end up connected via the terminals and remain isolated. Took a while but below illustrates the wiring for such a setup.
If you just use a single throw switch then the L and R pins would be connected at the switch terminal meaning when one activates it would activate the other, in turn causing both pads to become one which I imagine isn't ideal. Might be hard to picture it so here's what that would look like.
thanks Lia this is exactly what i needed! can't wait for my connectors to come in so i can start messing with this.
"causing both pads to become one which I imagine isn't ideal" --- actually this is exactly what i want, since this is what i have right now with the posisensor, which i always have set to POSI MODE. i was having problems with the board thinking i was doing a heel or toe stop whenever i did 180 reverts, so this turns it into an OR instead of and AND. works great. (i always have to jump off the board to stop, but that's better anyways)
as you saw in my other thread, i want to wire in a switch into the flighfins and make it a 3rd OR.
effectively: keep the motor engaged if
- left footpad
- right footpad
- flightfin switch
so... POSI + FLIGHTFIN MODE.
correct me if i'm misunderstanding anything.
in any case, you've given me enough info to be able to start playing around with this to get exactly what i want. doesn't look like it will be difficult. trickiest part will be to find a good way to mount the switch.
- left footpad
@Swinefeaster Oh well in that case it's that simple then :) A simple momentary switch with L and R connected to one terminal would combine them as a single pad and in turn making the Posisensor redundant.
If you want to retain the ability to switch between the dual pads or large single pad then you'd want the 2P1T switch and the Posisensor.
For mounting I guess you could drill a hole through the fin on the underside and then slot in the momentary switch with the complete travel of the switch being outside the bounds of the fin wit all the electrical connections safely tucked inside the hole.
yes! i also contacted flight fins and they were excited enough about this to offer me a discount on a fresh set of fins if drilling through it doesnt work out. now i need to wait a couple weeks to get my connectors... i dont want to cannibalize my posi sensor.
@Swinefeaster That's dope, keep us updated! :)
Swinefeaster last edited by Swinefeaster
couldnt figure out how to embed this
@Swinefeaster No joy boring out a hole in a fin to mount the button?
Another idea, mount the button to the side of the fender and rely on your ankle pressing up against the fender to press the button. Maybe a 3D printed or wooden mount. Can use the slot on the fender to mount it and feed the cables through too.
Not sure if that was a great description, here's a barely usable sketch of what that might look like.
As an added bonus you know as long as you're squeezing the fender you're making good contact with the button.
it lives! it's been raining here so havent been able to test it outside yet, but it does look promising
@Swinefeaster Clean, I love it! Wanna see you catching some air now :)
I went on my first trail ride today. The trails were a bit sloppy and i didn't have time to do a full 10mi run, did about 5mi. But so far it felt really solid! It never turned off on me once during jumps over roots, and overall the landings felt waaaay less sketchy than before. I need to do more "testing" and maybe even get someone to shoot some video of the results.
@Swinefeaster This has been a great post to follow, seeing other riders chime in with useful info and seeing your idea/innovation come to life and provide you with exactly what you were looking for. Kudos!
@HanahsDax indeed! super glad for everyone's help. so far this feels like a gamechanger for me.
I wonder if this wheel spinning in the opposite direction airborne on 3rd vid gives any advantage by chance on landing balance. Or is it just a coincidence that nose drops more on first two? On third nose-tail height remains so pleasantly well - making it really rad looking jump.
it's a very subtle and muscle memory skill, so i'm still experimenting and refining my technique. yeah me and my buddy noodle a lot on exactly what you just mentioned. i am not really sure. now that the board doesn't do really weird things and try to turn off on me while i'm in the air, it feels so much more consistent, and i am slowly progressing my airtime, though it's more by feel and intuition than thinking about the angle of the wheel... it gets more interesting the faster you are going when you jump, since you have to match the spinning of the wheel to the ground when you land and avoid nose diving/fang dragging or tail dragging.
NotSure last edited by
@Swinefeaster super cool! looks like a comfy landing. i'd maybe rub some of those small wear surfaces with a tiny dab of lithium grease on a small rag to see if i could clean up that bit of spring squeak. it's water resistant too just in case u haven't already.
Can anyone advise on what kind of wire to get for the switch? Gauge and type? I guess the same as is used in the footpad connector. Planning to make another for the pint. I was cannibalizing some other switches I had earlier, and I'll have to buy some. Thanks
@Swinefeaster will you go for full-hidden or semi-bare solution this time?
Silicone coating for sake of best maneuverability for full-hid. If wires stay outside at some part - PTFE insulated SPC wires for going nuts with perfection. -Just kiddin`
You`ll probably be well off with 15AWG 2-core silicone cable + additionally thermal shrink sleeve onto open areas for better abrasion resistance.
(The link was random first that came forth.)
@Sirgu thanks for the reply. i'm not sure if you consider my xr solution full-hidden or semi-bare. i will do something very similar for the pint, except it uses a stock fender, so i will have to run the switch wire inside the fender. i used a thicker more durable speaker wire for that part last time. ideally i'd like to use some kind of waterproof 2-pin connector that can be disconnected if i have to service the onewheel, but i haven't found one yet that looks small enough. i'll have a better idea when i take the pint apart again to see how much room there is.
ali express takes FOREVER to ship, and i'd like some color options to match the different wires. i'm assuming this would work too? 16 gauge ok?