Flightfin Switch (aka Pinout on Xr Footpad Connector)
@Swinefeaster This has been a great post to follow, seeing other riders chime in with useful info and seeing your idea/innovation come to life and provide you with exactly what you were looking for. Kudos!
@HanahsDax indeed! super glad for everyone's help. so far this feels like a gamechanger for me.
I wonder if this wheel spinning in the opposite direction airborne on 3rd vid gives any advantage by chance on landing balance. Or is it just a coincidence that nose drops more on first two? On third nose-tail height remains so pleasantly well - making it really rad looking jump.
it's a very subtle and muscle memory skill, so i'm still experimenting and refining my technique. yeah me and my buddy noodle a lot on exactly what you just mentioned. i am not really sure. now that the board doesn't do really weird things and try to turn off on me while i'm in the air, it feels so much more consistent, and i am slowly progressing my airtime, though it's more by feel and intuition than thinking about the angle of the wheel... it gets more interesting the faster you are going when you jump, since you have to match the spinning of the wheel to the ground when you land and avoid nose diving/fang dragging or tail dragging.
NotSure last edited by
@Swinefeaster super cool! looks like a comfy landing. i'd maybe rub some of those small wear surfaces with a tiny dab of lithium grease on a small rag to see if i could clean up that bit of spring squeak. it's water resistant too just in case u haven't already.
Can anyone advise on what kind of wire to get for the switch? Gauge and type? I guess the same as is used in the footpad connector. Planning to make another for the pint. I was cannibalizing some other switches I had earlier, and I'll have to buy some. Thanks
@Swinefeaster will you go for full-hidden or semi-bare solution this time?
Silicone coating for sake of best maneuverability for full-hid. If wires stay outside at some part - PTFE insulated SPC wires for going nuts with perfection. -Just kiddin`
You`ll probably be well off with 15AWG 2-core silicone cable + additionally thermal shrink sleeve onto open areas for better abrasion resistance.
(The link was random first that came forth.)
@Sirgu thanks for the reply. i'm not sure if you consider my xr solution full-hidden or semi-bare. i will do something very similar for the pint, except it uses a stock fender, so i will have to run the switch wire inside the fender. i used a thicker more durable speaker wire for that part last time. ideally i'd like to use some kind of waterproof 2-pin connector that can be disconnected if i have to service the onewheel, but i haven't found one yet that looks small enough. i'll have a better idea when i take the pint apart again to see how much room there is.
ali express takes FOREVER to ship, and i'd like some color options to match the different wires. i'm assuming this would work too? 16 gauge ok?
@Swinefeaster said :
... if you consider my xr solution full-hidden or semi-bare. ...
Till joints are covered and wires take dust storm on inner side of half-/full-fender I'd call it semi-bare. :}
But it's not entirely important .. sry for surplus information.
... but i haven't found one yet that looks small enough. ...
You might wanna give a glance at Amphenol ePower-Lite series or their FLH mini series. For inspirational purpose first. Once you've found small connector up to your needs, take it's part no. and go forth with research on vendors/e-stores up to your liking.
In either ways I'd leave that connector OUT of Pint's BMS housing, no matter how much room there is. Therefore you leave yourself this option for going through additional waterproofing if ever you find a need for it. Secondly, it's more handy to remove it for servicing without inevitable need to open housing. Way too obvious to write it down, right?
... 16 gauge ok?
Probably everything form 18 to 15 will do.
thanks, that's great. i definitely never said i was going to put it into the BMS housing (the one with the clear plastic cover and torx screws). just hoping to fit the connector somewhere in the fin extender or in the area where the foot pad connector connects to the bms.
i think i might grab these
Did the same mod on the pint too :)
NotSure last edited by NotSure
@Swinefeaster sort of off topic, but i just got some flight fins for my xr. how did u go about finding the 'right' spot to install it?
what i did yesterday is attach some industrial velcro to the backside of the fins and the stock fender, and been trying to move them around to see where it makes sense.
What I haven't figured out is how ppl use them if they ride an alpine stance?
I shifted my back foot up against the fender and it seems to make sense, but the front foot seems like it's a bit trickier. And the sensors don't work as well. Had 3 sensor warnings at speed yesterday. Doesn't happen normally. No change in footwear.
I see in ur pic, that u seem to have some sort of spacer. is that true?
edit: FOUND EM! I'm gonna try them out. still haven't figured out the alpine stance tho.
so i think you found the flightfin extenders, ya? they are essential. i am naturally very duck footed, so it took a while for me to get used to riding with the narrower stance i get, even with the extenders.
i highly recommend ditching the stock fender and getting the flightfender(s). get the glass filled nylon ones if you are planning on doing any type of jumping as the lower end ones break easily. i also have the flightshield too, and i love how easy it is to snap in and out (well, not so much with the kiil guards suspension now, but it was super easy anyways haha).
the flightfenders have little grooves that let you move the mounting points up and down without drilling new holes in your fender. i found that i needed to file out another few mm in some spots to get the mounting just right (the flightfins people actually suggested this). "a little goes a long way" in terms of adjustment.
lately i've found that i need there to be a little bit of wiggle room for my feet and when i jump, i just squeeze my feet together and rely on the switch i installed to keep the motor engaged while airborne. if i make it too tight, my feet dont go in all the way and then my switch sometimes wont get pressed correctly and it captain morgans on me again.
i also find that when i roll the board, at least with the flightfenders, since you can't overtighten the bolts, the fins get knocked out of position and i have to keep and eye on them and wiggle them back into full extension mode sometimes.
but all in all, the system works great. i wouldn't ride without them. hope this helps.
you should go posi, or install the switch too. having to keep both sensors engaged makes the board just want to turn off all the time, and i didn't realize how much it fucks with the ride (even when it doesn't turn off) until i actually posi-ed up.
NotSure last edited by
i highly recommend ditching the stock fender and getting the flightfender(s). get the glass filled nylon ones if you are planning on doing any type of jumping as the lower end ones break easily.
Cool! Thx for the tip. I'm just looking for a bit more torque on the board when carving without the additional stress on my left ankle (old repeat injury that I should stretch everyday but i don't cuz im dumb). If I can pop an ollie or two off a speed bump I'll consider it a wild success lol.