Leave it plugged-in whenever you aren't riding it for the next week. You can ride as much as you want, just make sure to plug it in right after and leave it charging until your next ride. Get back to us after that.
Posts made by biell
RE: Bearings Bearings Bearings... What's the difference?
@3tch3r I don't know they are bad, the difference is that I know the others are good. Without a published ABEC rating or an independent review, you can't even be pretty sure ( https://youtu.be/RWHT3Xt7qfw ) the off-brand bearing is good.
It is your motor, and you can feel free to put whatever bearing you want on your board, I was just letting you know how I felt as a counterpoint, so you could make the best, most informed decision for yourself.
RE: Bearings Bearings Bearings... What's the difference?
The Hypercore motor is a really nice and innovative piece of engineering. You want to protect it, and one of the best ways to do that is good bearings. Good bearings make the ride nicer sure, but most importantly they protect the motor.
Cheap bearings are more likely to allow water and particulate into the motor, which is very bad. Bearings are the things which keep the motor and the wheel aligned properly, if the bearings start to go, then the motor and the inside hub of the wheel might touch, which could be bad. Also, changing your bearings is a pain, so get good ones that last longer.
If you want to get good, inexpensive bearings then you can get the Burris Hybrid Ceramic for like $64 (for a pair). There are a lot of bearings nicer than these. If you go SKF, just make sure they are authentic and not knock-off. Personally, I plan to only buy the TFL Grizzly ABEC7 (ceramic) from now on. I have the ceramic on one board and the steel on another, and the ceramic ones are my favorites for sure.
RE: PSA: Wear your helmet, lol
@Lia I have posted about this solution before. It is important for us to follow the same conventions expected of bicycles, if we are to be accepted on the trails. I get a lot of "Thank you" statements from fellow trail users when I use my bell to alert them before I start to pass. After the bell, I usually verbally let them know which side I am passing on.
RE: Reviving a destroyed Pint
I would look into using JBWeld to re-make the controller housing box. I would think about putting in new threaded inserts in there before you start, so the screws can grip nicely. An alternative would be to put the screws in there before you JBWeld, then take them out before it sets. But, I would think my first approach better.
Since everything might not fit perfectly snug, I would suggest keeping the gasket, but also using 100% pure silicone around the controller box when you reseal it.
As for the missing parts, there are a number of people who part out boards on Reddit and FB, try posting there.
RE: What is the standard battery cells voltage?
The behavior you describe is normal and experienced by most people.
4.18 across the board is a very common voltage. It means that your cells are starting their normal degradation process. Most XRs probably spend most of their lifetime in this state, as the 4.20 quickly drops to 4.18. I bought my XR used with like 200mi on it and all cells listed 4.18. Like 2,000mi in and they still all list 4.18 after a full charge.
You probably just need to balance them a little better, leave the board plugged in overnight for a few nights in a row and you will likely be able to make it below 20% without issue again.
Be aware that the drop-off for normal cell degradation is not symmetrical, and it mostly happens on the bottom end on NMC batteries. There will be a time where your XR dies at 10% every time and you need to plan to stop riding before getting down to 20%.
Many people treat 20% as 0% on an XR and only ever plan to ride it down that far, with anything after 20% as their buffer in case of a miscalculation in how much they will use on a ride.
RE: Battery swap from XR to Plus
Your XR battery pack will not work in a Plus, different battery chemistries.
For your XR, are you planning on having someone rebuilt it or buy a replacement? If rebuild, then you might as well do that now.
If replacement, then I would recommend leaving it on the charger all the time when you are not riding it. People don't normally do that because they don't want to keep their board at 100% to try to extend the battery life. But, if you are thinking about replacing it anyway, you might as well eek out the maximum performance possible for the next few months. If you can make it down to 20%, I don't think any of your cells are completely shot. So, I think doing this will lessen your surges and allow you to ride further below 20%.
RE: Why localization on the App ?
@Sebasp1976 if you are using Android, its a google requirement. You can turn off your location once connected or some people use a fake locstion app to keep them guessing.
I hate this issue, but accept its a google thing
Umm, no, this isn't a google thing at all. This is a Future Motion requirement. You can still connect to your OW using pOnewheel, Onewave, or OWCE without having location on. This requirement came on at the same time that FM added the "Group Rides" feature. Basically, they want people to be able to communicate with other local OWers (which is totally cool, btw, but only if it is by choice) and need your location to figure out what "local" is. They could have made this optional and disabled the local group ride feature without a recent location, but the chose not to. They could have also only asked you to turn on your location if you opened the "Group Rides" or "Rider Search" sections of the app.