Best posts made by lemur

For those that have a Pint, you can cut the charging time in half by buying the Ultracharger . For those that have an XR and a Pint, there is a third party adapter. The third party adapter uses the standard XR charger NOT the XR Hypercharger.
Being the one to experiment, I decided to purchase a few components and make my own adapter.
It does work , but I had to check polarity many times before plugging in. I've let the "smoke" out of many electronic devices.
I do not recommend anyone else to fallow my lead and I will not give instructions.
I do recommend the Ultracharger for the Pint .

I made a set of Pint float plates because the present ones for sale do not have a front carrying handle like the XR.
Also commercial ones don't have a kickup for stopping and front hits.
A heat gun, a vise and a wooden form to mold the handle. Next set I make will have a larger handle.
Probably the design of the Pint didn't allow for a recessed handle. It's a small package.

@Lia
That sounds doable with a generic 14s bms for charging and balancing but not for discharging. Discharging straight from the battery pack.

@chet_boii
Supposed to be small bearing 6203 (17x40x12 mm)
Large bearing is 6906 (30x47x9 mm)
My mistake on the 6203 (since edited) and yours on the 6903.
I have a bunch of new medium quality 6203 and I can send you one for free

I improvised two mods for my Xr and Pint.
First up:
Temporary splash, mud and wet leaf guard.
It's made from a Dollar store plastic binder and taped to the battery box under the rear footpad. The sharp folds are rolled with anything cylindrical, in my case a D cell. The slash guard comes really close to the Burris tire, but doesn't harm anything. Keeps water from splashing on to the seam of the battery box, it's only temporary until Spring. I've tried it out and it works well.



Splash guard in use today.

Second up:
Cheap rear footpad riser for Pint(or full size model).
Since I've already put on the custom graphics grip tape, I didn't wat to order another grip tape.
I really like the Xr with the Kush rear footpad, no foot fatigue.
This footpad riser I made for the Pint really helps, and with the new Burris slick, It's like a totally new ride.
The riser is made from a piece of truck bed liner, but can be made of wood, plastic or a piece of car tire.
I used a angle grinder with a abrasive pad to contour the pad.

@lemur Thanks for all the guesses.
Here's the items' purpose.
The aftermarket Pint float plate has a handgrip cutout and unless you have eagle talons for fingers it's next to impossible to use.
It's not practical to permanently attach this item as it may interfere with curb nudges, so it's just a handle to carry the Pint in crowded areas.
The 1/4 inch bit diver can be used as a screwdriver.
Feel free to copy this design.

Update:
My V1 broke, got bummed out so I found a V1 locally with 10 kms on it. Comes with the box and Ultra charger.
I paid a "premium price" $1200 Canadian.
It was used as a movie prop.
This "new" V1 is so much quieter, so I think my broken V1 has bad bearings. Also there's very little drag with no power compared with the rough notchy feeling with the broken V1.

I'll do a wheel disassembly when I have time and find bearings locally.

@blkwalnutgrwr
Thanks for the leads. I'll try both.
I was thinking of bms bypass and using a external xt60 connector with a matching male or female xt60 that has a wire loop to complete the circuit.
Better than an on-off switch that can accidentally be shut off.

@lemur
Tore into the old noisy V1 motor today, here's what inside a Fluxcore 500 watt motor.
The seven allen head screws are red loctited in, so use a good quality allen wrench.
The motor magnets look like they're covered in plastic and stator is potted.
The small bearing is rusted and rough and that's where the noise was coming from.
Small bearing is 6203 (17x40x12 mm)
Large bearing is 6906 (30x47x9 mm)
Both bearings are common and top quality will cost slightly more, but still under $20 each max.
Very east to replace.

I redid the grip tape on my Onewheels.
The "Back to the Future" is a complete kit from Fluxskinz. The Mattel symbol is my own.
The other ones are "design your own"
The Kemper is one of my first snowboards way back in the "80's.
The WW2 Donald Duck grip tape is temporarily taped on for now.

The only problem is the grip tape is thicker than the original and is very sensitive to feet position and rider weight.

Update:
Finished the Pint in miliary dress.
Canadian eh?

@RickN I have a JWbattery in my Pint and finally had a chance to take it for a ride.
I also installed a battery meter and programmed it for 15 lithium cells.
The route I took was flat, I weigh only 140Lbs. my Pint has a Burris slick at 16 psi.
I rode for 17 kms , but decided to call it a day as my toes were getting numb from the cold, 6 degrees C (42 degrees F).
My meter read 27 % @ 52.8 volts at that point. The voltage doesn't match the voltage chart provided by JWbattery. According to the chart, 52.8 volts should be 45%. My meter may be off or the chart is just a rough guide.
With this new battery, my Pint is creeping into the low end of XR range.
Push back is quite pronounced at the beginning of the ride, but mellowed out as power dropped a bit. Have to be aware of the changes.
One of the best mods for the Pint, tire is next best!

This post is not related to Onewheels except the use of a Pint tire
This is just for general info and I posted on Facebook "Diy Onewheel"

Surfwheel R1 makeover
I bought R1 as a curiosity piece since I already have a couple of Onewheels. It was cheap on Ebay.
The Surfwheel is almost unrideable due to the solid rubber wheel and what I believe is a modified electric unicycle speed controller.
This is my makeover:
-Stripped off extra pieces
-Cut off solid rubber tire
-Onewheel Pint tire (10.5x4.5x6) fits over the bare motor hub and width looked ok
-Machined flanges, drilled and tapped motor hub for 6 10x24 screws
-Used a 3.5x6 inner tube and hoped for the best. Seems to be fine

• Used 1/4 inch spacers under "u" shaped motor hub axle mounts to widen the rails to Onewheel Pint width
  -Made abs bottom plates and top aluminum plates with "speed holes" (each hole is worth a couple of kms of added speed)😂
  -Cut down a rear footpad from a Onewheel Xr to fit
  -Went for a test ride and the pneumatic tire completely changed the R1, it can actually turn and carve like a Pint.
  -The controller is iffy at best, hard to mount, hard to dismount ( have to drop it on its side)
  -Unfortunately yesterday I let the "magic smoke" escape the speed controller probing for a 5 volt source 😢
  -Ordered a Fungineer controller and chances of finding a Surfwheel
  controller is next to impossible.
  I will finish the project when the Fungineer controller arrives.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

@blkwalnutgrwr I built this 1/4 scale from stuff I had laying around.

• Aluminum rails.
  -The tire is from a 1/10 RC buggy with the knobs sanded off.
  -The hub is two piece machined aluminum with small allen screws.
  -Small ball bearings in the hub.
  -Carbon fiber float plates and sandpaper for griptape.
• Decals are hand cut.
  
  

I just received a Pint a couple of days ago, I already have a XR.
The Pint is quite nimble, quick and easy to turn, I have it on Skyline.
I turned "simple stop" off because that's not the way I stop, also I like to rock back and forth while waiting at a stop light. I did try "simple stop" a few times and it works great.
The push back on the Pint is quite aggressive, while going uphill, I hit push back every 15 feet. Also push back comes in at a lower speed than on the XR
The XR is so forgiving and push back is gentle and hits smoothly.
I like both boards but each has its merits.
My Onewheel was rolling around in the cargo area when transporting it.

I thought of buying a stand that lays the board on it's side while transporting a Onewheel in my small suv, but the stand didn't look like it would prevent the board from tipping over .
My cheap solution was a small car tire and just plop the board on top, but the board must be strapped down in the cargo area of a suv, least it becomes a 30 lb. missile in a sudden stop.

That 1/5 scale XR needs grip tape, hard to ride.

@LidPhones
I don't seem to have any problems with connectivity .
I'm on a iphone , no problems so far.
I can't get over how quick the turns are with the Pint, sneeze and you've done a 360.

My biggest fear whether riding Onewheel on the street is getting hit from behind or vehicles getting too close.
I ride goofy so it's not too bad at least in North America where we drive on the right hand side.
I've tried a helmet mirror, but found it hard to focus(too small) and hold my head steady until I can get a clear picture.
I used a larger strap on mirror meant for a bicycle and put it on my left hand ring finger, I can get a great view.
I used a brand name mirror, but found the convex was too severe , I sourced a cheap offshore knockoff with less convex.
The horn is a bicycle horn is good for alerting pedestrians, but no good for warding off cars. The horn has 3 tones, the circus clown tone always get a smile from pedestrians.
Sorry, don't know if the mirror will work for regular foot riders.

This is knockoff mirror.

This is a brand name mirror.

Excellent choice! Good idea attaching it to your wrist guard, I get 50/50 putting on my wrist guards. Works good for you riding regular?

@Glyph
Ah. Misread your reply.

I bought a cheap Onewheel plus for testing the different range extenders.
Since the Plus is out of warranty long ago, it's a good platform to hack as my XR is still under warranty and not much need to extend the range anyways.

-The extenders are home built based on commercial types.
-Parallel extender where the Onewheel battery is accessed .
-Xlr type where charging through the charging port while riding. Seen by the Plus as regeneration.

Thoughts and experience:
--- Parallel extender using a 16 -18650 cells is tricky as both batteries should be the same state of charge and not at 100%.
My mistake was the batteries were at 100% , the board went into "overcharge" warning and went into non balance mode.
The board still wouldn't balance after disconnecting the auxiliary battery, but after leaving the board with the lights on for 10 minutes, it recovered and worked fine.
---Xlr system worked great as it will add to the battery percentage slowly. Uphills will pull the percentage down, but evens out.

My own analysis:
-Parallel system , less parts, more work to install.
-Xlr system, more parts and cost ( MTP-7210 solar controller, Hoverboard battery and charger). Very easy to install.

Note the Xlr system won't charge the board if it isn't turn on.
To charge the board without it being turned on, a different Xlr connector is used where the center pin is powered up.

Being a life long snowboarder and the importance of good bindings, I always felt something missing in riding a Onewheel XR.
My heel side turns on the Onewheel weren't as crisp as my toeside and the longer the distance I rode the weaker my heelside became.

I added a Burris threaded tire which made turns much quicker and then a Kush Hi rear footplate which reduced foot fatigue.
Then when I added a homemade toe plate or"hook" to simulate snowboard bindings so I can tilt the Onewheel easier to heelside and didn't have to fight the board. That when everything changed for me.

I tested it all week and just came back from 2 trips around Stanley Park in Vancouver, Canada (total 22 km ) and that's on the road since the park board closed one lane just for cyclist. Very little leg/foot fatigue and I feel locked in now.
Actually, I made one for the back foot but that after testing, it wasn't necessary.
One size doesn't fit all since some people are regular foot and different shoe sizes and shapes. I have one on my plus also.
They're made of 3/16-1/4" abs plastic, heat gun bent.