I can see that under board settings it tells you Ah used for the current trip I am not seeing a real time current meter. Am I not looking in the right place? And while that is possible to do the math with trip amps, it isn't very "Real Time". I would like to see how power usage changes with speed, and up or down hills.

I did go and ride the OW for one mile to get some rough numbers.
Conditions=Pretty flat street, several starts and stops.
AH used = .3197
AH regen = .0378
Mode 8 (Delerium)
Battery voltage = 58.7
Power rate locally = $.082/kWH

(A little math)
.3197-.0378=.2819 AH actual used
.2819x58.7v = 16.5475 WH used/1000 = .0165475 kWH used X $.082= $0.001357/mile
or
1/.001357 = 736.9 miles per $1.00
or
0.001357 X 4.6 (my commute) = $0.006242/day (as if that is all I ride it in a day)

Not too shabby considering it cost me about $0.82 to drive my old 4Runner to work and back.

But

That is likely not real accurate since my sample size here is 1 mile and there is a rather large hill to climb (and Regen)

Which brings me back to my original wish. I know that the OW motor is conservatively rated at 750 watts. I would like to be able to see just how hard it is working at a given moment. Going with their obscure naming system they could call it the "nerdvana" tab, or something. Or even just a little bar graph like most every EV car has. The math and coding would be a really easy addition to the app.

What your calves would look like after 80 miles on a OW

Wow, ya snooz ya lose here.
Congrats geguia.

@b0ardski
That is a good question. I don't know exactly how FM has programed their BMS. Do they stop charging at 3.8v, 4.0v or do they let the charger go all of the way up to 100% of the batteries capacity? Nor do I know where exactly they do a cut off voltage. But it is a pretty safe bet that when your app says you are out of battery (0%) The battery still has 20-30% left and the BMS has shut it down to protect the batteries. You should be fine running it all the way out, the BMS isn't going to let you hurt the batteries.
I know that most cell phones let the battery charge all the way up to about 4.2v per cell since they don't really care about max battery life. They are more concerned about max run time.

There is another concern here if you are digging into battery tech. Li batteries don't all charge and discharge at the same rate. Over time you can get quite an imbalance between cells. I did a little checking and found that the voltage reported to the app is the voltage from the last cell in the pack, not all the cells. If this is a slow cell it could be giving you a higher reading than normal, or if it a faster cell it might be a bit low. This is why FM advises that you should occasionally let the batteries charge overnight, or longer, to assure that all of the cells are up to the same level. I guess you could open it up and measure each cell, but I am having far to much fun with my OW to take it apart and look for such things.

You are right that the performance of the the OW drops as the battery discharges. The OW has a programed feedback warning system. You will notice that as the power available drops pushback happens at a slightly lower speed. But the change is really quite minor. This is due to the discharge characteristics of lithium chemistry batteries.

Notice that from 80% down to 20% the voltage is essentially constant. Also if you discharge a lithium battery below a critical voltage you will damage the battery, hence almost all lithium batteries come with a BMS (battery management system) that cuts off the battery at around 30% capacity. Your phone may say that it is dead, but in fact the BMS has just cut you off. The Onewheel is no different. In fact if you want to get the best life out of your Li batteries you should avoid charging them all the way up. Pushing the voltage past 3.8v per cell significantly shortens the life of the battery. Most BMS won't stop charging at 80% since everybody want their phone to hold a charge for for as long as possible. (and most phones are obsolete before the battery quits) But if you want that iPhone to last 10 years you should really take it off the charger at about 80%.

Sounds like a pretty strong consensus for riding with traffic here. I have had one close call with an irate driver riding on the left. I was actually waiting for a light to use the crosswalk, (zebra stripes) got the light started across. totally had the right of way and a cross signal. A driver who wanted to make a right turn on the red, and thought stopping was only a suggestion, just about took me out. I swerved to avoid painting his front bumper. He was cussing up a storm, I decided to just be happy to have all my skin and be on my way.

I know that this is kind of a noob question but I didn't see any posts in the search on this.
When I jog or long board I almost always face traffic. Better to see what is trying to kill you and take measures. On the other hand, bikes or powered scooters you typically ride with traffic.
The OW seems to fall somewhere between these two.
Another factor seems to be if your reg or goofy foot rider. Being a mostly left foot forward guy I prefer to be on the left side of the road so that I am facing the road. When I ride on the right, with my back to the street, I feel less aware of whats going on around me.
Trouble is I live in a rural, retiree heavy town. Some of the old duffers kind of panic when they see me coming. I have had them literally stop in the middle of the street when I am 4 feet off the road on a wide shoulder. I try to smile and wave as I zip by, but the panicked or confused looks on their faces makes me think I am being a poor ambassador for the community. (and without much else going on in their lives they do love to complain)
Opinions?

I wish that you could adjust the pushback speed in the custom shaping. Mine kicks in at about 16 MPH.
I have tried a few thing to see how pushback behaves.

1. I played around with the tilt of the board which did change things, but it didn't have any effect on the speed at which pushback started. Nosing the front down felt like it made pushback more pronounced when it kicked in, but that may have just been me.
2. I have also noticed that the begining speed of pushback starts a MPH or two lower as the batteries get low.
3. I'm not sure if this is absolutely true, but it seems that pushback becomes more pronounced at about 19 MPH
4. Carefully pushing the board to its max speed my XR did the "kickback" pop at 25.3 MPH (don't try this at home)
5. Running the battery to 0% to see what my max range was like, the board did an uptilt forcing the back of the board to the ground and then shut off. Not exactly pushback but kind of.

That is some skills