@speedracer find an android phone and install the Onewave App to connect and check your cell voltages. Screenshot below is what you can expect.
Download from here.
@biell not sure whats going on there. The 15 May update was the one that added the Location Services requirement.
If you have found a way around would love to know how. Currently i turn it on, open the App, then turn GPS off again. Ive still got the shits over this 'enhancement'.
@Telomere nice one. Thanks for the tip on the o-ring selection. Mine were still intact with a sliver skinned off them. I too had some paint overspray in the bearing area. At least they didn't paint the bearing! 😁
@WhiteFreedom the app power gauge is a best estimate only and shouldn't be relied on to the last %. It uses the expected Amphours based on the whole battery pack voltage (63v is full), compared to the measured Amphours used.
The need juice alarm is from the BMS which is looking at individual cell voltages. If a single cell is lower than the limit, the BMS will trigger that alarm. Thats why when you balance the battery, the App percentage was closer to being accurate.
You may already have this covered, but balance charge the pack regularly. Lots of opinions out there, for what its worth, I balance once a week and ride 5 or 6 charges per week.
Absolutely horrible update, the app won't connect to my board unless I turn the privacy destroying, battery wasting GPS on. No thanks!
Agree with this. Location sevices should not be mandatory to use the other features in the App. ☹
Should be a check for using the group ride or rides function only. Daily commuters (the high mileage riders) are not interested in location and now have to toggle location services just to connect. 🤯
Agree the lights can't be changed without the app.
Anything that uses leverage will break the bead. The 2x4 approach some use can involve jumping on it, so an impact load. Will work but a bit uncontrolled.
I used my drill press (turned off) so the drill chuck goes down onto the tire slowly. Really easy to control.
Another method I've seen used a car jack, with the jack sitting on the tire near the bead, under the tow ball of a car. As you wind the jack the weight of the car pushes down to break the bead.
In all cases, have a nice soft piece of timber between the wheel and anything metal. Don't want any extra scars.
The bearings are not serviced. Basically they are greased for life and oil or sprays will remove the grease and fail them sooner.
The design of the OW relies in the bearing seal only, which is probably the bare minimum they can do. The badger kit adds an additional external seal, which is good. Its another layer of protection. However all seals have a clearance (gap) which allows contaminants into the bearing. If there is no clearance then you get friction and that will evemtually create a clearance or wear.
The whole point is to keep contaminants (dust and liquids) out of the bearing and let the original bearing grease lubricant do its job. Any improvement like the badger seal or other designs out there will help, as will avoiding exposing the bearing to dirty environments (but where's the fun in that!).
Sorry if that's a but preachy. Not intended to be that way.
@Mykv craft n ride had a sale recently for free international shipping. Try connecting with those guys for a deal. Flight Fins wanted $70US to ship to Australia. CnR were $50US before the sale came up.
There will be tyre sellers in NZ, but may not be the best tyres for a OW. I work with a guy who races karts and tried a used dunlop from him. Wasn't a good experience. Very square profile, so a step backwards from the Vega even.
The Hoosier distributer in Australia didn't have the right tyre but could get it in. You could try hooking up with other NZ guys and order a bunch in.